rust experiment workbench

Workbench Level 1

— Information accurate as of: Unspecified Update

The Workbench Level 1 is a deployable item used for learning blueprints via a tech tree.

Crafting [ ]

The Workbench Level 1 takes 60 seconds to craft and requires the following:

Mechanics [ ]

The Workbench Level 1 is used primarily for unlocking blueprints via a tech tree using scrap , but can also be used as a station to refill Diving Tanks and the Jackhammer . It can also be used to craft the next level of workbench, the Workbench Level 2 .

To use the Workbench, first place it in a suitable location and press the Use key to interact (default: E). Once opened, pressing the "Open tech tree" button will reveal a tree of blueprints to learn. The blueprints must be learned in a specific order, but there are multiple branches that allow progress into different areas. To learn a blueprint, players must have the amount of scrap stated, and must have unlocked all blueprints prior.

Workbench Level 1 tech tree.

Researching an item does not allow players to skip through parts of the tech tree, but will still allow players to craft that item. In addition, once an item has been researched, players will not have to pay additional scrap to bypass that item in the tech tree. Once a player has learnt all available blueprints of that workbench level, they will lose the ability to research more and be given a message stating that they have learnt all available blueprints of that level.

Players can also use the Workbench to refill Scuba Tanks and Jackhammers. Simply open the Workbench, select either the Scuba Tank or Jackhammer and click "Refill" option. Note that refilling tanks and jackhammers will cause a small amount of permanent damage, limiting their maximum capacity or use (similar to using a Repair Bench).

• 2 Explosive 5.56 Rifle Ammo

Have a Question?

If you have any question you can ask below or enter what you are looking for!

• Rustopedia /

What is the workbench level 2 in Rust

The workbench level 2 in Rust is a crucial component in the game that allows players to access advanced crafting recipes and unlock new possibilities in their gameplay. In this article, we will explore the basics of workbench level 2, its importance, the process of upgrading to it, the benefits it offers, common challenges that players may face, and some tips and strategies for maximizing its potential.

Understanding the Basics of Workbench Level 2

First and foremost, let’s define what exactly the workbench level 2 is in Rust. It is an upgraded version of the standard workbench that players can build and use to expand their crafting capabilities. Unlike the basic workbench, which only grants access to primitive items, the level 2 variant offers advanced crafting options, enabling the creation of more powerful weapons, tools, and equipment.

One of the most significant advantages of workbench level 2 is its ability to unlock recipes for higher-tier items, which would otherwise be inaccessible. This means players can craft items with improved durability, damage, or other performance attributes, giving them a competitive edge in the game.

But what exactly does it mean to have access to advanced crafting options? Well, imagine being able to create a shotgun instead of just a simple bow and arrow. With the workbench level 2, you can do just that. You can craft firearms, explosives, and other high-powered weapons that can turn the tide of any battle in your favor.

Furthermore, the workbench level 2 allows you to create advanced tools that make gathering resources much easier. For example, you can craft a chainsaw that effortlessly cuts down trees or a jackhammer that quickly mines valuable minerals. These tools not only save you time but also increase your efficiency, allowing you to gather resources at a much faster rate.

Importance of Workbench Level 2 in Rust

Now that we understand what workbench level 2 is, let’s delve into its importance within the Rust gameplay experience. Having a workbench level 2 not only expands your crafting possibilities but also allows you to progress further in the game.

With access to advanced crafting options, you can equip yourself with superior gear, making combat encounters easier and increasing your chances of survival in hostile environments. This is especially crucial in Rust, where resource scarcity and fierce competition are common challenges.

Additionally, the workbench level 2 opens up new avenues for trade and cooperation with other players. Since higher-tier items are more valuable, you can use them as bargaining chips or currency to establish alliances or acquire resources that you may not be able to obtain on your own.

Moreover, the workbench level 2 serves as a symbol of progress and accomplishment in Rust. As you upgrade your workbench and unlock more advanced crafting recipes, you demonstrate your dedication and skill to other players. This can earn you respect and recognition within the Rust community, leading to new opportunities and collaborations.

In conclusion, the workbench level 2 is a game-changing feature in Rust. It not only expands your crafting capabilities but also enhances your overall gameplay experience. With access to advanced weapons, tools, and equipment, you can dominate the game, survive in hostile environments, and establish yourself as a formidable player in the Rust world.

The Process of Upgrading to Workbench Level 2

So, how can you upgrade your workbench to level 2? Let’s break down the process into two steps: gathering the required materials and following specific upgrade steps.

Required Materials for Upgrading

Before getting started, gather the necessary materials to upgrade your workbench. You will typically need a combination of various resources such as wood, metal fragments, gears, and scrap. Make sure you have enough of each material before proceeding with the upgrade.

Steps to Upgrade to Workbench Level 2

Once you have the materials ready, follow these steps to upgrade your workbench to level 2:

• Locate your existing workbench.
• Approach the workbench and interact with it.
• Select the option to upgrade to level 2.
• Wait for the upgrade process to complete.
• Congratulations! Your workbench has now been upgraded to level 2.

Benefits of Using Workbench Level 2

Now that you have successfully upgraded your workbench, let’s explore the benefits it offers.

Advanced Crafting Options

One of the primary advantages of workbench level 2 is the access to advanced crafting options. You can now create powerful weapons, armor, and other items that were previously unavailable. Experiment with different recipes and unlock new strategies to dominate the Rust world.

Increased Efficiency in Gameplay

With workbench level 2, you can streamline your crafting process and save valuable time. The increased efficiency allows you to create items at a faster rate, giving you an edge over other players. Spend less time crafting and more time exploring, raiding, or defending your base.

Common Challenges and Solutions with Workbench Level 2

While workbench level 2 offers numerous benefits, it may come with its fair share of challenges. Let’s address two common hurdles you may encounter and suggest solutions to overcome them.

Dealing with Resource Scarcity

As you progress in Rust, obtaining resources becomes increasingly challenging. To tackle resource scarcity, consider establishing alliances with other players or joining a group. Cooperation and organized resource gathering can alleviate the burden of acquiring materials and expedite your progression to workbench level 2.

Overcoming Time Constraints

In the fast-paced Rust environment, time is of the essence. To overcome time constraints, prioritize your tasks and focus on gathering materials efficiently. Optimize your gameplay to dedicate enough time to crafting at your workbench while still attending to other crucial aspects, such as fortifying your base or acquiring food and water.

Tips and Strategies for Maximizing Workbench Level 2

Now that you have a workbench level 2 at your disposal, let’s explore some tips and strategies to maximize its potential.

Best Practices for Using Workbench Level 2

Organize your recipes in a logical manner to improve your workflow. Store materials near the workbench for quick and easy access, and prioritize crafting items based on their usefulness and urgency. These strategies will help you stay organized and make the most efficient use of your workbench’s capabilities.

Mistakes to Avoid When Using Workbench Level 2

Avoid wasting valuable resources by carefully planning your crafting projects. Make sure you only craft items that you genuinely require and avoid unnecessary experimentation. Additionally, be mindful of the workbench’s durability and repair it promptly to prevent any interruptions in your crafting activities.

In conclusion, the workbench level 2 in Rust is an essential tool that enables players to unlock advanced crafting options, increase efficiency, and overcome challenges. By understanding its basics, importance, upgrade process, benefits, and implementing effective strategies, you can leverage workbench level 2 to enhance your gameplay and thrive in the harsh and unforgiving Rust world.

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

What I am currently selling!

Some great links for wargamers... (blogs in quotes).

• "Clash of Empires" - Austrians galore!
• "Dave Taylor Miniatures" - some FANTASTIC stuff
• "Der Alte Fritz Journal"
• "Dressing the Lines;" Roly Herman's blog
• "Echoes of Glory" - toy soldiers galore!
• "Garage Gamers" - lots of eye candy!
• "Lonely Gamers" - tons of minis!
• "MacPhees" - a nice blog
• "Matakishi's Teahouse" - Amazing, varied!
• "Tarleton's Quarter" - Giles' great blog
• "The Painting Shed" - 6mm Nappys
• "Wargaming With Silver Whistle" - a beautiful blog
• Lord Ashram's Middenheim Army
• Lord Ashram's Skaven Army
• Perry Miniatures - the best around
• Rick O'Brien - the Flag Dude
• The Lordz - Napoleonic and American wargames
• The Miniatures Page - a good forum
• The Stuff of Legends - a huge collection of painted toys
• The Voltigeurs; a 1:1 unit of Nap. minis

Blog Archive

• ►  December (1)
• ►  October (1)
• ►  April (1)
• ►  March (2)
• ►  January (1)
• ►  August (3)
• ►  July (2)
• ►  June (3)
• ►  May (2)
• ►  January (4)
• ►  November (2)
• ►  September (2)
• ►  June (1)
• ►  May (3)
• ►  April (3)
• ►  February (5)
• ►  January (2)
• ►  December (4)
• ►  November (6)
• ►  October (2)
• ►  September (3)
• ►  August (1)
• ►  June (4)
• ►  May (4)
• ►  April (11)
• ►  March (8)
• ►  February (8)
• ►  December (3)
• ►  November (12)
• ►  September (6)
• ►  August (15)
• ►  July (11)
• ►  April (17)
• ►  March (11)
• ►  February (11)
• ►  January (13)
• ►  December (2)
• ►  September (7)
• ►  August (10)
• ►  July (7)
• Some amazing Crescent Root 15mm European buildings
• 2nd Perry "Retreat from Moscow" Infantry unit fini...
• The Workbench: The First "Retreat" Sled
• A present for a buddy's daughter
• Some great classic Epic 40k armies!
• Sam Mustafa's "Freejumper"... a detailed review!
• Second "Retreat from Moscow" Perry unit nearly don...
• A fantastic book from my youth!
• ►  April (4)
• ►  February (6)
• ►  January (7)
• ►  December (6)
• ►  November (1)
• ►  October (4)
• ►  July (9)
• ►  June (13)
• ►  May (1)
• ►  February (3)
• ►  January (11)
• ►  September (1)
• ►  August (2)
• ►  July (3)
• ►  May (9)
• ►  March (7)
• ►  January (6)
• ►  November (8)
• ►  October (3)
• ►  September (13)
• ►  August (5)
• ►  May (5)
• ►  April (15)
• ►  December (7)
• ►  November (7)
• ►  September (14)
• ►  August (11)
• ►  June (2)
• ►  April (8)
• ►  March (13)
• ►  February (15)
• ►  January (10)
• ►  December (11)
• ►  November (4)
• ►  October (15)
• ►  September (16)
• ►  August (8)
• ►  June (17)
• ►  May (7)
• ►  February (16)
• ►  January (12)
• ►  December (23)
• ►  November (18)
• ►  October (9)
• ►  September (20)
• ►  August (19)
• ►  July (6)
• ►  June (8)
• ►  May (16)
• ►  March (9)
• ►  February (18)
• ►  January (3)
• ►  December (8)
• ►  November (17)
• ►  October (14)
• ►  September (4)
• ►  August (9)
• ►  July (12)
• ►  June (18)
• ►  April (9)
• ►  March (14)
• ►  January (26)
• ►  December (17)
• ►  October (8)
• ►  September (23)
• ►  July (15)
• ►  June (7)
• ►  May (14)
• ►  April (18)
• ►  March (25)
• workbench (135)
• photos (78)
• scenery (73)
• moderns (38)
• Fall In (31)
• french (30)
• new room (30)
• armada (27)
• Harry Potter (23)
• x-wing (23)
• wolfguard (22)
• zombies (22)
• the walking dead (20)
• 25mm_Nap_French (18)
• legion (18)
• squadcrawler (18)
• samurai (17)
• 25mm_Vikings (15)
• dungeoncrawler (15)
• squarecommander (15)
• son's army (14)
• for sale (13)
• minuteman miniatures (13)
• 15mm_ACW_CSA (12)
• retreat from moscow (12)
• 15mm_Cowboys (11)
• 25mm_Nap_Russians (11)
• longstreet (11)
• 25mm_Nap_British (10)
• sharpe (10)
• 15mm_ACW_USA (9)
• deadwood (9)
• russian (9)
• zerodarkthirty (9)
• 10mm_Nap_British (8)
• 15mm_WWII_Germans (8)
• mountain men (8)
• Warhammer (7)
• conventions (7)
• quickshade (7)
• 10mm_Nap_French (6)
• Cabinet (5)
• Death of Nelson (5)
• battlefield3 (5)
• cold wars (5)
• pirates (5)
• star wars (5)
• 15mm_Modern_US (4)
• Austrians (4)
• black seas (4)
• minecraft (4)
• 25mm_ACW_CS (3)
• 25mm_Nap_Austrians (3)
• 6mm_vikings (3)
• blitz bowl (3)
• blood bowl (3)
• 15mm_Modern_Insurgent (2)
• Prussians (2)
• 25mm_ACW_US (1)
• 25mm_WWII_Germans (1)
• 6mm_ACW (1)
• Space Hulk (1)
• aurelian (1)
• blood and plunder (1)
• blucher (1)
• dwarves (1)
• freejumper (1)
• gordon and hague (1)
• little wars (1)
• m.u.s.c.l.e. game (1)
• mighty empires (1)
• playtest (1)
• shakos gbl (1)
• sharpe's wine (1)
• wargames illustrated (1)
• wok man (1)

Saturday, May 28, 2016

The workbench: the first "retreat" sled.

No comments:

Post a Comment

Get the Reddit app

The largest community for the game RUST. A central place for discussion, media, news and more. Mostly PC users, for console Rust please use r/RustConsole.

Can you get workbench 1 experiments blueprints on a workbench level 2/3?

By continuing, you agree to our User Agreement and acknowledge that you understand the Privacy Policy .

Enter the 6-digit code from your authenticator app

You’ve set up two-factor authentication for this account.

Enter a 6-digit backup code

Create your username and password.

Reddit is anonymous, so your username is what you’ll go by here. Choose wisely—because once you get a name, you can’t change it.

Reset your password

Enter your email address or username and we’ll send you a link to reset your password

Check your inbox

An email with a link to reset your password was sent to the email address associated with your account

Choose a Reddit account to continue

• What's New?
• Mark Forums Read
• Today's Posts
• View Site Leaders
• Friends of the Creek
• Advanced Search

• Woodworking by Hand and Specialties
• Neanderthal Haven

Choosing workbench construction

• If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

• Jump to page:

Thread: Choosing workbench construction

Thread tools.

• Show Printable Version

Rate This Thread

• Current Rating
• Linear Mode
• Switch to Hybrid Mode
• Switch to Threaded Mode

• View Profile
• View Forum Posts
• View Blog Entries
• View Articles

Hello neanderthals! I'm apartment occasional woodworker and my current bench is two sheets of plywood laminated into one 1 1/2 inch top (40 mm). Attached to two walls and one leg. It badly lacks capability to support panels for edge work, not very flat and stable. So I want to make a proper handtools workbench. I have certain limitations however. Top size that I can fit into my apartment is 600 mm x 1300 mm (24" x 50"). It will be placed into the corner so only front and left side will be available, might be pulled out occasionally for some work. On the left side I would like to place twin screw vise with chain (likely Veritas), on the front I want to have leg vise with cross mechanism and sliding deadman. Leg vise I will likely make angled to avoid racking while clamping wide panels for end / edge grain work. I also need to be able to disassemble bench in order to relocate or renovate our apartment. If you notice any flaws in my design, please share in comments. My main concern is bench top. I'm in doubt about the way I should choose. On the one hand I have butcher block style panels available, on the other hand it's only 40 mm (1 1/2"). Let's say I want to make oak top. I have oak lumber available as well, something like 100 mm x 50 mm (2 " x 4") should not be a problem. So option one: buy glued thin top and enclosure it into some frame / skirt, German-style workbench top. + might be easier - grain direction might differ within one board ? it's unclear how to deal with wood expansion / contraction ? it's unclear how to design legs and make them flush with the face edge of the top Option #2: laminate 4" thick top, Ruobo-style. + heavier and sturdier - top thickness might need to be reduced for some holdfasts / holddowns by drilling larger diameter from the underside - end vise attachment might be tricky both because of wood expansion and of top thickness (I would prefer 5" height jaws) ? not sure how to make legs detachable yet solid What are your thoughts about dealing with wood expansion of the top? How would you attach twin screw end vise? The only reliable way I might think is some sort of split top. Do you have any ideas about workbench that can be disassembled? I only saw German-style benches but they didn't have legs flush with the front edge.

Design wise your size limitation in crippling unless your projects are very small. To fit a chain vise and a leg vise is possible but I doubt you will need a travelling deadman for that length of bench. Yes some mass is required for stability, with a small bench go thick top and massive legs. One option would be an English workbench, the front gives good edge working options. One member here makes a portable Moravian workbench with splayed legs for stability, that seems a great option for you. I would not invest heavily in vises at this point, just go simple and inexpensive.

Well, may be I will extend the length to 5' (1500 mm), minimal length according to Chris Schwarz. But then I will have no room to stand at the left end unless I pull it out. That might be an option, since for dovetailing I plan to use leg vise with holddown. I would not go with English workbench due to limited end vise options. With bench standing in the corner end vise is more comfortable for resawing and some other tasks. I do have quick release vise in that position now. Also traditional wide apron of English bench will prevent me from accessing underside of the bench where I plan to store some stuff like sawing bench and probably tools. Thanks, I will look into Moravian benches construction. As for vises, I really want to make them useful. They will encourage me to work on that bench rather than choosing another activities due to inconveniences. Also lumber will cost about the same as vises so why not to invest into joy of using good vises. ADDED My guess is that I usually make small things. Certainly I do not plan to make doors (just recall that I actually have one in my todo list). So far largest board was about 47" x 10" (1200 mm x 250 mm) and I was able to face plane it. How large is your very small?

Last edited by Alexander Zagubny; 10-24-2018 at 9:25 AM .

Moravian workbench looks great but I have a couple questions regarding it. First, what is the best way to attach end vise with wide jaw, like twin screw. One have to chop out way for screws, that's ok. But how the skirt / jaw can be attached? Bench top has to be allowed for expansion / contraction, right? And you will usually want front left corner to be flush, so it will be kind of pivot point, might be bolted to the top. Next, to allow expansion some kind of sliding joint can be used, probably breadboard end like? Second, isn't attachment of the top to the legs too weak? Would not proper tenon be better? Also, any way to tighten that joint? Looks like tightening won't make it weaker.

I'm not one to follow trends but have you considered the Roman style bench? I built one recently and have enjoyed working at / on mine. I've got a 350 pound, 8 foot long Roubo that I built some 15 years ago and its great but the Roman bench can do just about everything the big bench could do. Plus, it takes up less room and could even serve as seating furniture in your apartment when not in use as a workbench. Worth thinking about.

Your endgrain is like your bellybutton. Yes, I know you have it. No, I don't want to see it.

But how the skirt / jaw can be attached? Bench top has to be allowed for expansion / contraction, right? And you will usually want front left corner to be flush, so it will be kind of pivot point, might be bolted to the top. Next, to allow expansion some kind of sliding joint can be used, probably breadboard end like? Yes, like a breadboard end. Often the ends are dovetailed and the center part is like a tongue and groove joint. Getting both sides dovetailed can be done with a laminated piece along the front of back of the bench. It could also be worked out with different sized tails. My bench has a shallow skirt along the front. It allows for pegs or holdfasts to be placed along the front to support longer work. A skirt will not hinder tool storage under the bench. Remember you will want enough space between the bottom of the top surface of the tools storage and the bench to allow for holdfasts. jtk

"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty." - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

Zach, could you please share an example of Roman style bench you meant?

Originally Posted by Jim Koepke Yes, like a breadboard end. Often the ends are dovetailed and the center part is like a tongue and groove joint. Getting both sides dovetailed can be done with a laminated piece along the front of back of the bench. It could also be worked out with different sized tails. Thanks for clarifying! That explains most cases when top has tool tray or split. In such case is it usually glued? Originally Posted by Jim Koepke My bench has a shallow skirt along the front. It allows for pegs or holdfasts to be placed along the front to support longer work. A skirt will not hinder tool storage under the bench. Remember you will want enough space between the bottom of the top surface of the tools storage and the bench to allow for holdfasts. I do remember, thanks! However I thinks that wide apron will more prevent seeing what is underneath and make handling harder. So I mostly want shallow skirt to make handling tools easier (assuming you mostly will stand tall while taking something).

IMG_20181024_180223.jpg My woodworking corner for reference

You can do as Jim suggests, or just make the top end much thicker with laminations that all move together. That gives you the end face to attach a vise. As for the top attachment, in a ridgid base frame simple pegs suffice with the weight of the top. In a folding frame a steel rod hinge would work just fine, the splayed legs from each direction providing holding. The Moravian bench lacks a storage shelf but you can add one with supporting strips inside the trestles, use cedar planks held together with webbing stapled on the bottom. You can then literally roll up the shelf when you move it! The base design is all about mobility. The splayed legs give great stability. Even just one pair of large stretchers in the middle of legs with tusk tenons and pegs into the underside of the bench works well. If you make all the ‘bits’ substantial but detachable you can move it from place to place but not pull it out from the wall easily. Glad you can make it 5 ft long. I had a 5 ft bench but found it frustrating and not that stable when planing difficult wood. Size wise, dining table is big, end table is small. I love making dining tables if you have some beautiful wood to showcase. Simple to make, heavily used and appreciated.

Last edited by William Fretwell; 10-24-2018 at 11:32 AM . Reason: Add

Originally Posted by Alexander Zagubny Zach, could you please share an example of Roman style bench you meant? https://goo.gl/images/Bv51Jb https://blog.lostartpress.com/2017/02/11/roman-workbench-build-along/

Alexander/William - With the limited work space available, would a splayed leg design like the Moravian design create more issues for standing and working from the left side of the bench? Agreed that the Moravian bench seems to provide lots of design flexibility for this particular situation, but I am wondering about a splayed leg intruding into that left side where you would stand. I almost think a straight legged Ruobo style with the vise mounted on the left side would work as well or better. Alexander - I have a 4" thick split top Ruobo bench top and the Tools For Working Wood brand holdfasts work well without any back boring of the holdfast holes. My split top pieces are M&T onto the top of the legs and the opposite ends of the split top pieces are secured with large screws through slotted holes in the upper stretchers and into the bottom of the bench top. The Ruobo style can be built in a take down fashion by connecting the long lower stretchers to the legs with bolts rather than permanent glueing. The short end stretchers would be glued. Your call whether a split top or one piece would be best. Split top is definitely lighter to move around and provides a place for material clamping if required, but maybe with a smaller bench only, a single piece top would be more useful.

hey Alex, I've been struggling with the same question for a while. My solution is a bit different than yours, since my woodworking is geared towards smaller things like guitars. I'd heavily consider looking into a Nicholsen type bench with a flush front to support bigger boards for edge work. The LV screw down hold downs are pretty versatile, and I like them more than the Grammercy whack down ones for guitars (more delicate control on clamping). I may build a moxon. For the top, I'd keep the plywood top for now...flat, stable, don't over think it. Use your bench to make a better bench down the road.

http://kapeldesigns.blogspot.com/201...fast-vice.html Try this one. FWIW, I'm a pretty fumbly guy, and even have a hard time with the wood gears "simple" workbench. Still, I have a hard time thinking of what I can't do with a Nicholsen of the right size...for specialized clamping, I can use a patternmaker's vise or a moxon vise. For large panels, I can use holdfasts on the apron. For storage underneath, I can have a shorter apron on one side. Additionally, this can screw together fairly fast and be disassemble in a pinch. It's probably the easiest to build workbench that will do everything you need.....not as nice as a Roubo or a Lie Nielson workbench, but quite versatile. What type of woodworking are you doing?

Ack! Sorry. Coffee kicking in. Alex, I like your setup and may copy it. As for a vise, I guess that you know your needs better than I. You may want to consider getting a patternmaker's vise if you do small things. I'm saving up for the Stewmac one after I build my workbench (which won't be as nice as yours). https://woodgears.ca/workbench/build.html For my top, I have a maple laminated slab that's 40"x1.75x 18.5". My workbench will be 34" high and optimized for guitar building and small stuff (speaker boxes, knife handles, etc). Aside from a patternmaker's vise, I'm not sure what vise I'd need for guitars....maybe a moxon thing? The only thing constructive that I can add is that you are sorely lacking a good holdfast. Try the Lee Valley screwdown one (if you value silence) or the Grammercy one (if you like whacking things). They will make your clamping life much easier. I figure that I can build a full sized Nicholson hybrid down the road.

• Private Messages
• Subscriptions
• Who's Online
• Search Forums
• Forums Home
• Forum Tech Support
• Lumber Yard
• Member Interviews
• Off Topic Forum
• General Woodworking Forum Announcements
• Turner's Forum Announcements
• Shop Made Tools and Machines
• Sawmills and Kiln Drying
• Neanderthal Haven Announcements
• Woodcarvers Forum
• Boat Building
• Musical Instruments
• Design Forum
• Project Finishing
• Woodworking Projects
• Woodworking Articles and Reviews
• Engravers Forum Announcements
• Engraving Hardware and Software
• CNC Forum Announcements
• Sign Design and Fabrication
• Metalworking
• Deals and Discounts
• SawMill Creek Classifieds
• Freedom Pens
• SawMill Creek Store
• FreeStuff Drawings!
• Sponsored Forums

Posting Permissions

• You may not post new threads
• You may not post replies
• You may not post attachments
• You may not edit your posts
• BB code is On
• Smilies are On
• [IMG] code is On
• [VIDEO] code is On
• HTML code is Off

Forum Rules

• Sawmill Creek
• Terms of Service

• e-Data Center
• User Registration
• Eng     Rus
• Fluid Workbench
• Chemical Workbench
• Mechanism Workbench
• Video and Tutorials
• Contract research
• Model Development
• Predictive Modeling
• Plasma Technology
• Electronics
• Nanotechnology
• Environmental
• Spintronics
• Microelectronics
• Publications
• Our Customers
• Send Request

Kintech Lab

Kintech Lab was established in 1998 by a group of scientists from leading Russian research institutes.

Professional Background 73% Ph.D. and Professors

Educational Background 80% graduated from the three top Soviet/Russian Universities Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology, Moscow State University, Moscow Engineering Physics Institute

Human Dimension Average age 37